1973 V8 VW Super Beetle Build - Dial-up beware, LOTS of images.

Administrator Post: 1259

Was wondering if you had forgot us. Razz

Car is really looking good. The black wheels are nice, may be hell to keep clean though.

Interested Post: 50

Interested Post: 50

Some catching up to do on my postings...

8-) Alright, alright...(in my best Matthew Maconha voice) Progress.

Sandblasted the diff cover inside / out and the shock / u-bolt mount.

Drained the gear oil, which didn't look too bad, and added the new stuff after scraping away all the old gasket, on the diff cover and matting surface, with a gasket scraper.

I sand blasted the diff cover at work. Here it is installed. I used some of edelbrock's gasket sealer on both mating surfaces to ensure it seals up nicely.

Here the rear is after a good wire brushing and painting with some Master Series. It came out decent even though there still was some build up I couldn't remove. Seals still must be good cause there was no leakage after it staying like that for days.

Painted the shock mounts, leaf springs, and shackles.

Here's a picture of the completed rear. Well, minus the shock tower bolts which I later added. Everything is hand tight for now cause the rear will need washers or something to make up for the extra space left by the .5" narrower leaf springs. Once the body is secured and I have the 18"s on I'll do a final setup of the rear diff.

I had decide that I would move the front leaf mounts forward and move the rear back on the leaf springs to make up for it. I did this to help keep the shackles away from the fenders. They were an inch away from the fenders with the way it was previously setup. Well, that didn't work out so well. Here's the front mount moved forward 2". I drilled 1/2" holes to secure the mounts and drill an over size hole so I could mount the Isuzu leafs. The 3/4" were not cheap. Smile

They look manly though.

You can see that the is now further away from the inner fender. The problem I ran into is moving the rear diff back 2" started having a weird effect cause I'm moving further up the arch of the spring. I planed to secure the rear by making something similar to these.

Maybe I'll try just an inch instead of 2". Or perhaps I'll make some shackles so that they're not so close to the fenders. ???

Here you see the rear it reassembled with and the body it back on. I tried rolling the chassis out so I could take pictures of it 95% finished and so I can clean up my garage but it was bumping into the boards that support the body. So I figured I'd put the body back on. It's been sitting up on them blocks a little to long for comfort. ;D That and I wanted to see the new stance with the 2" lowering spindles and the 3" block in back.

From this angle you can see how the 18" wheels will be very close to the wheel leaving very little of a gap, which is what I wanted. The tires will tuck into the fenders. I was just wanting to see how things looked.

These are going to look nice. I'll have them on next progress post.

She sits fairly low. Even though a only did a 2/3 drop it seems almost slammed when I stand next to it. I'm really loving the stance and I'm sure it'll go down another 1-1.5" once everything is in and settles.

The front end aligned up nicely. The passenger wheel was 2" further inside the fender and make the car look off. Now, they're even and have the same wheel gap.

Here's the problem I was running into. The arch of the leaf spring combined with the lowering blocks pushed the wheels forward. I can move the axle back that would just amplify the effect.

I'll get her sitting right again. Next time. If it ain't one thing it's another.

More recent progress.

Well, I got the rear mocked up and hand tightened. The wheels fit nicely and look cool. I've got a bout 1/2" on each side from the fender hitting the side wall. I'm sure I could get more by slightly opening the bottom of the body since it's not permanently mounted just yet.

Today when I get home from work I'm going to roll the chassis out and get some pictures. Then clean up the garage and organize my engine parts and tools so I can start build the motor. Finally.

Interested Post: 50

Here's a few pictures of the size on my garage, per RaidMagic's, request and some shots of how the black vette wheels look.

Interested Post: 50

Received my new pistons and crankshaft for the 383 build. I have to send the crank back though cause there's a scratch on the one of the rod journals from shipping. It's from one of the shipping staples poking up into the box. You would think it's from the box the luxury treatment. LOL, look at that box. Oh well...

Match set is always good.

Made in India, that's good too right? LOL...

This is exactly how I received it...great job UPS and FedEx!!!

It looked OK. There was a little rust on of of the bob weights, but then I found an unacceptable scratch...back it goes.

A plastic bag of this weight really shouldn't have tears in it like it does. Wouldn't you think?

Interested Post: 58

looking good keep those posts coming can't wait to see it at the shows. cheers

Apprentice Post: 14

Wow

you should have kept a log of how many hours you put into this. Excellent job. I eagerly await more Very Happy

Interested Post: 50

Thanks guys. I'll keep everyone posted. I have put in quite a bit of hours. Wish I would've kept a long, but I'm too far in it now.

Well, I got my engine back from the machine shop and I'm starting to put it together. I'll post pics as I go.

I've upgraded the valve springs on my vortec heads.

Removed the inner dampers (too much seat pressure).

The stock spring (right) compared to the beefy upgrade spring (left) which are Lunati.

Good ole spring compressor. Compress, remove keepers, decompress, remove retainer, spring, install need spring, the retainer, compress, install keepers with even spacers between gaps, and decompress.

Heads ready to rock at high rpm!

Check all my clearances.

Finally, got my engine block and rotating assembly back from the machine shop. Had it hot tanked, magnafluxed, decks set to 9.020, hone, new pistons pressed, 383 ARP rod bolts pressed in, rods resized, and the rotating assembly balanced. Total cost was $590. Looks like they did a great job.

Then, I started running into problems. During the preassembly process I notice the bearing clearance wasn't right for the rod bearings. Narrowed bearings solved that problem. I dropped a piston and then it wouldn't go in right anymore. Rolling Eyes

Order a replacement piston. Then, I managed to put a scratch on the crankshaft because the rod caps are darn near impossible to get off. So I had to take it to the machine shop to get polished. Last but not least, I wanted to install my own bearings, and messed up a bearing. I bought new ones and they are currently in without any problems.

Took the block to the machine shop for a thorough cleaning before final assembly. Tonight I'm going to paint the block and start the final assembly this weekend.

Interested Post: 50

It's been a little while since an update.

Here we go. Here's some pictures of the build.

Here's what the crank looked like when I got it back from getting it polished after I boogered up the crank (small scratch). When I got to the machine shop I thought, "Wow, what kind of crank is that with the gold journals?" Haha.

I wish I would've take a few more pictures while we were building, but I was so into the build the last thing on my mind was taking pictures. The day flew by fast.

This last picture the intake, valve covers, carb, and air cleaner are all just sitting there. I was anxious to see how it would look.

I'm going to work on it some more throughout the week and I'll hopefully have it finished by the weekend. Putting an engine together takes much longer than I thought.

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Well, the plan was to get it in this weekend. If it isn't one thing it's another. I didn't get the motor in this weekend much less did I get the car home. My old man and I couldn't get a hold of my uncle whom has the engine hoist we need to borrow. So the move was put off until next weekend. I'm going to try and borrow one from my mechanic. So hopefully I'll get it home sooner than this weekend.

Some pics of the engine 98% complete. Just need to install small stuff like vacuum hose for the dist., pcv valve, put the oil sender unit back in (manual one installed for pre-oil which is pictured).

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

So I got the engine in last night. It's finally a V8 bug. Haha.

I've managed to get one bolt completely through the mount and the other is in but not through the back of the metal mount plate. I've got to move the rear of the engine about an inch towards the passenger side so it can go all the way through.

On another note, the engine fits great but I'll have to raise the body about 3" to clear the breather and the alternator. Seems dropping the body 6" around the frame was a tad too much. I might have to buy me a lower mounting alternator bracket for a short water pump. Maybe the one I have will fit after I raise the body, but we'll see.

One great thing is the dist. clears the wiper motor compartment by about 2". That's with the motor all the way forward in the mounts so I've got a little wiggle room to move the engine back slightly if needed.

Administrator Post: 1259 Location: Lone Oak, Texas

Looking good for sure...

I figured you would need a little KY gel to get it in there. Razz

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Cell # 469.422.9072

'73 Bay Camper · (T 1 conversion)
'68 Bug · (Ratty Daily Driver project)

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Novice Post: 64 Location: Amarillo, Texas

Hey man I just got fineshed looking at all the pictures, Great job man! You give guys like me inspiration to build stuff like that! I would really like to see some more pictures! Hows the progress??? Keep up the great work!

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Thanks, I'm glad my project has inspired you. I've made some more progress lately.

I bought a tranny. th350, which I'm in the process of rebuilding.

I also bought a tranny crossmember, sandblasted it and painted it.

Got the gas tank sealed, painted, and sitting in it's place.

I flushed the radiator and painted it.

Last, but not least, I bought a rollcage and I'm working on getting it installed.

So within the next month or so, I should have the cage finished, tranny in and be working on getting the driveshaft and flooring fabricated.

Novice Post: 64 Location: Amarillo, Texas

Sweet. Oh and the black rims are gonna look great if you decide to go with them.

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Sorry it's been a while since my last post. Check this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvUaSOQgPYQ

I also have had the trans rebuild, it's installed, driveshaft shortened and installed, exhaust ran (FlowMaster 40 series), plumbing ran for rear radiator, and part of the floor done. It'll be a driver soon.

I'll post pics soon...

Administrator Post: 1259 Location: Lone Oak, Texas

Sounds sweet, got a good lope to it. Twisted Evil

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Cell # 469.422.9072

'73 Bay Camper · (T 1 conversion)
'68 Bug · (Ratty Daily Driver project)

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Thanks! I still need to tune it (degree in the timing and adjust the idle). It should have a little more lope once I get that done. Very Happy

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Hey guys,

Time for an update! I have the bug driving, but there's still a hand full of things to do before I can get it in paint. I'm hoping to have it in paint by May.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4Ct4LndyBk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKK5sYU2pHg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKUldF9XIyk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKUldF9XIyk

Administrator Post: 1259 Location: Lone Oak, Texas

Cool.

Looks like you may have to move your seat back just a little. That knee was pretty high. Twisted Evil

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cell # 469.422.9072

'73 Bay Camper · (T 1 conversion)
'68 Bug · (Ratty Daily Driver project)

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

Haha, it's a tight fit for sure. That's as far back as I can move the seat. Otherwise, my head will pass the top of the roll bar and I wont pass tech inspection at the drag track. Better to be crampt than brake my neck in a rollover. I wish I could give myself some leg room but everything is so crampt.

It's fun to drive though. Like driving a go kart with a bug body and a V8. Cool

Interested Post: 50 Location: Houston (Cypress), TX

A few things I've managed to get done.

Here's how the distributor mod looks.

You can see the mechanical advance limiting screw with the side ground for "fine" tuning and the vacuum limiter which is made out of just a piece of 22 gauge steel I had laying around. Next to free modifying this thing.

Had to clearance the rotor cap a little.

Here you can see it was a great concern to me whether or not I could even remove the distributor cap. Thank god it would come off. I still had to rotate the crank to get to the rotor screws.

I moved the gas pedal away from the brake pedal some more. This is as far over as I can get it.

And, last but not least, last night I made templates (night before), cut them out and welded the rear wheel wells in.

Having a couple gallons (everything is sealed...but) of gas in the tank and the fact the paint kept catching fire on the bug body when I was welding the wheel well pieces up kept me from wanting to fully weld these things up. Some MasterSeries and sealer will finish the job here.

Next thing I'm going to tackle is the "engine bay". I want to trim out all the excess sheet and reinforce the front clip with some 7/16" rod. What do you guys think? Will I have problems with the whole front end shaking or will it be strong enough with some reinforcement and the fenders bolted up?

Here you can see a guideline I drew where I want to cut it.

I'm trying to make the engine bay as simple as possible. No wheel wells and the wiper compartment will go so I'll have easier access to the dizzy. Also, it'll allow me to use the cowl vent to allow how air to escape. I just plan to make a mount for the wiper motor.

Things to do before body work / paint stages.

1. Rear, above gas tank, sheet metal.

2. Finish engine bay.

3. Finish filler neck sheet metal.

4. Seam sealer.

Getting there.